WEST AFRICA …. VOODOO RITUALS.

So onto the ports of West Africa to checkout what is actually going on. West Africa is a population of almost 420 Million with 16 Countries and over 500 languages. The region is often referred to geographically, as the “Sub Sahara” … abutting several countries in the desert of the North African region.

So a quick bit of history … Back in the day West Africa was a major area of trade with routes between Arab-dominated North Africa and the south. It was a source of gold and ivory.

The region was also very active in Slave Trading. Origins of Slavery go back to the first century and by the mid 1400’s … the Portuguese began to transport slaves.

West Africa became a hub of slave trade … sending more slaves to the Americas than any other region. It was the “largest forced migration” of any people in history. The slave trade came to an end in the early 1800’s with Colonialism … instead of slaves … the Europeans “took” Cocoa, Coffee, Timber and Gold.

By the mid 1800’s the “Scramble for Africa” started … led by 7 European powers …. France, Germany, Great Britain, Spain, Portuguese, Belgium and Italy … by early 1900’s Colonialism was everywhere. By 1914 … 90% of the continent was under European Control … and most of West Africa was dominated by the French.

But within 50 years … African countries started to break away … gaining total independence by 1990.

Religion and Spiritual beliefs have always been an important part of the West African culture. Influenced by the many Islamic countries to the North ( The “Sahara Region” ) the majority of people practice Islam.

So we visited one of the mosques in The Gambia … we happened to be there during a religious holiday when they sacrifice “a Ram.” I was not about to watch that … nor was I likely to get an invite … since we found most mosques we came across don’t particularly want visitors.

I was busy anyway … shooing away the goats that roam the street …trying to protect them from becoming the “Sacrificial Ram” of the Day. ( I have a better understanding of where the term “Sacrificial Lamb” may have come from. ) But I suppose … as unnerving as it may seem … Christians basically do the same thing with a Lamb or a Ham at Easter … the only real difference … they use the local butcher.

So Christianity … the other major religion … has its footprint from Colonialism … the majority are Catholics introduced by the Portuguese. Spiritual Beliefs tend to be stronger than western cultures and most West Africans regularly attend church.

The ancient tribal religions and their traditions still influence everyday West African life. Tribal Religions are built on beliefs in “Ancestor Worship” and “Animism.” ( Animism … a new one on me … the belief that inanimate objects have spirits. ) So one of the oldest religions that is still practiced today is Voodoo ( meaning “Spirits” ) … with 30 million followers in West Africa.

It is one of the most misunderstood religions out there. The beliefs are based on one supreme God, known as “Bondye.” Like other major religions VooDoo recognizes a single and supreme “spiritual entity” or “God” …. no different than Islam, Christianity or Judaism. It’s not the way Hollywood presents it … sticking pins in a “voodoo doll.”

Voodoo practices include readings, spiritual baths, prayers and personal ceremonies … usually taking place in nature. Ceremonial Dances include Drumming and Singing with elaborate costumes to encourage “spiritual possession” ….. one of the members takes on a spirit and can communicate with the group. ( Not quite like Linda Blair in the Exorcist ).

“Spiritual Possessions” along with “Intermediary Gods” are used to communicate between Mankind and the Creator … “Bondye.” ( The “Top God” ). Animal Sacrifice takes place to show their respect to God and the Spirit World. The ceremonies are used to help the poor, hungry and sick.

So off to a Voodoo Ceremony in the country of Togo to check it out. Getting there turned out to be more of an eye opener than the actual ceremony. In fact most of us on the bus were not sure we would actually make it. These areas are very poor and though the main road is paved … all roads off the “ONE” main road are dirt and not maintained. So when it rains … they get potholes that get bigger and bigger.

They do not typically have busses on these roads …. most walk or if they’re lucky have a motorcycle. ( Typically also used as a taxis. ) But our driver was determined to prevail against the deep thick mud … he weaved and bobbed around the pot holes but a few were unavoidable … causing our bus to get stuck …. back and forth in the mud. ( That same sound of spinning tires that everyone in New England knows. ) We eventually got out but not without the front bumper falling off … not once …. but twice … the driver had to get out and pound it back in place. Fists did the job. …. Hammers are not plentiful.

So all the commotion drew the children who were very intrigued with our presence …. a bus full of “old white people”… half of whom have walkers and scooters that they have probably never seen. Interesting to watch these walkers try to navigate the mud.

We finally got to the ceremony where we were welcomed by The Chief who performed a ritual pouring liquid into a bowl and on the ground. One bottle looked like gin … who knows …. it was a warm welcome given to “special guests.”

Next we sat down to watch the ceremony … lots of tribal dancing, drumming and singing that went on for at least 40 minutes. I was amazed at the stamina to sustain the dance for such a long time in the hot sun.

There were many movements I didn’t understand but the one that did catch the corner of my eye was a guy with a chicken on his head ( Yes …a live chicken ). Luckily I could not see very well because I suspected what might happen …. And it did … no photographs of that one. I know we eat them but I would rather live in my bubble and not know how it got to my plate. ( I assume that was the “sacrifice” given to God to show their respect. ) I was not asking questions … a chicken is certainly better than a person and I did not want there to be any misunderstanding. 😜

Some of these rituals probably look strange to us but I am sure our rituals look strange to them. We certainly sacrifice many animals …. as seen in any meat department in the grocery store.

So Voodoo as a religion grew … particularly during forced slave migration … when it spread to the Americas.

Today it accounts for half the population of Haiti and 60M worshipers worldwide.

So back to the bus after the ceremony…. taking in all the beautiful faces that watched us as we made our way out.

We made it back to our ship with our bus still in one piece …. Perhaps minus a front bumper. It has certainly turned out to be an “Eye Opener” … and we still have 4 more countries to go in West Africa.

NEXT STOP …. DAYS 166 to 172 … WEST AFRICA TO BE CONTINUED